Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 60 February 2015 Contents GLOBAL NEWS
Sustainability summits in 2014
highlighted key challenges faced by the
cosmetics industry in years to come.
THE AIM OF the Sustainable Cosmetics
Summits, organised by Organic Monitor*
and held in three global locations each
year, is to encourage sustainability in the
beauty and personal care industry by
bringing together key stakeholders and
debate major issues in a high-level forum.
The Latin American edition took place
in São Paulo, Brazil, last September 10-12,
the Asia-Pacific edition in Hong Kong on
November10-11, and the European edition
in Paris from November24-26.
Among the key topics were approaches
to tackling sustainability, traceability in
supply chains, moving towards renewable
materials, marketing communications,
and engaging with consumers.
The European and Latin American
editions gave case studies on how large
multi-nationals are tackling sustainability.
Alexandra Palt, CSR and sustainability
director of L’Oreal, said the company is
integrating sustainability into various
departments so that all new products
have a beneficial environmental or
social impact. According to Palt, a big
challenge for L’Oreal is to create zero -
Ewerton Nunes of Johnson & Johnson
said social aspects - such as the health of
its customers and employees – were of
paramount importance to the company.
It has introduced global metrics to
measure improvements in these areas.
The importance of raw material
traceability was covered in the Asia-Pacific
and Latin American editions.
Using tea tree oil as an example,
Jerome Chophard gave details of the
grow ing incidence of adulteration and
mislabelling of natural ingredients.
Apart from the
economic harm to
legitimate producers, Chophard
said fraud also brings environmental and
Her ve Fretay from Givaudan encouraged
ingredient firms to “invest in their supply
chains” to guarantee supply of natural
ingredients. He gave details of Givaudan’s
Venezuala sourcing project, which is
preserving 148,000ha of the Amazon to
secure tonka beans for its fragrances.
There was much debate about sources
and application of natural ingredients in
personal care formulations.
With new technologies allowing green
materials to be produced in refineries, a
frequent question was “what constitutes a
According to Phyture Biotech, plant
cell technology is the way for ward as it
enables agricultural land to be freed for
Other companies, such as Naturex
and Beraca, believe companies should
make a difference by working with
Anthony Verdugo from Naturex
showed how the company is working with
local tribes in Cameroon to preser ve
endangered maobi trees.
Asia Plantation Capital gave details
of its Agar wood reforestation projects,
while Keracol highlighted the innovation
possibilities offered by food waste.
Retailers also shared their experiences
with sustainability. The Brazilian
company Grupo Boticario has put sales
channels at the centre of its sustainability
strategy. Malu Nunes, sustainability
manager, states the company is investing
eco- design for its
The international retailer Carrefour
said private labels and packaging were
key parts of its green initiatives. Andrew
Jenkins from Boots expressed the scale
of the sustainability challenge faced by
retailers; the UK pharmacy chain has
8,000 private label products, making raw
material traceability a huge task. Jenkins
called for personal care brands to take a
systems approach to sustainability and not
think about their products in isolation.
Many discussions centred on the
marketing issues associated with green
products. Although consumers were
becoming highly aware of env ironmental
and social issues, various studies show this
does not always translate to higher green
Organic Monitor said that many
natural and organic beauty brands are
struggling to overcome the “green glass
ceiling” and get mass market appeal.
Ogilvy Earth believes brands need to
target middle consumers if they are to
overcome the “green gap”. Coop Denmark
said it was building its private label ranges
to encourage green product purchases.
Deloitte Consulting described how green
brands can use social media to engage
w ith customers.
The Latin American edition of the
Sustainable Cosmetics Summit 2015 will
be held in São Paulo, May 14-16; the North
American edition: New York, September
28-30; and the European edition: Paris,
28 | SPA+CLINIC
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