Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 61 May 2015 Contents SKIN BODY
professional natural makeup
It is with you and your
business in mind, that we
have designed an offering
which will suit both the
needs of your spa or salon
and your clients.
You can now select from a
variety of display options
which will ensure that you
are able to build your
business with SLA Paris.
For a presentation phone
Encore Beauty on
1300 770 428
Agency enquiries welcome
a paraben free
a natural & organic
a not tested on animals
a 100% mark up
a micronised formulas
a HD makeup
a vegan friendly
a fair trade
Serums can be layered but
the key here is to understand
the potency of the actives in
each product to ensure the
skin isn’t over-stimulated.
the collagen. Look for ingredients such as
Trylagen, Klotho and Colhibin.
Sun damaged/weathered: These skins
benefit from a course of, say, in-clinic peels,
skin needling or LED phototherapy as a
starter. At home, make sure clients are
using, at an absolute minimum, vitamin C
in the morning and vitamin A at night.
Pigmented: Use of serums containing
vitamin C, B3, retinol and peptides especially
for lightening and brightening is advised, plus
a skin needling device to infuse the serums
and break down the pigmentation faster. It’s
advised that clients start with in-clinic needling
and maintain results at home. Needless to say,
they must use an SPF 30+, zinc-based, broad
spectrum sunscreen rain, hail or shine!
Acne/rosacea: Products whose ing redients
have a calming, soothing and anti-
inflammatory effect are musts here, and
less is best. Use retinol, niacinamide, HA,
Symglucan and micronised zinc.
Congestion, blackheads, large pores.
Depending on the client’s skin type,
you may choose some gentle AHAs and
BHA. But their skin must be ver y clean
(ideally using a cleaner w ith zeolites)
and a regular professional light peel or
microder mabrasion makes a big difference.
Diffuse redness, with broken capillaries.
Calming and soothing is key: ingredients
like aloe vera, oat kernel, comfrey, mallow,
bisabolol are perfect, with vitamins C, F and
K help to strengthen capillary walls
Extremely sensitised. These skins needs
re-balancing and strengthening and, so,
use of retinol. They should start with very
low doses to strengthen and rebuild fragile,
volatile skin, and also biomimetic peptides
that imitate the biological conditions found
in healthy skin.
Skincare today is based on active
ingredient s w ith proven deliver y systems.
Depending on the percentage of active
ingredienst, it can trigger a cellular
change. It’s difficult for consumers to know
right from w rong. You should encourage
clients – and clients to advise their
friends – that the best first step is to have
a professional skin analysis by a therapist
before buying serums, and ideally not to
buy at random from department stores,
supermarkets and chemists.
They need to understand what the
active ingredients of a product are, in what
percentages and what these ingredients do
before applying anything to their skin – or
they can do themselves damage; at the ver y
least, waste money.
In most cases, serums should be
applied after cleansing/toning and before
Serums can be layered but the key here
is to understand the potency of the actives
in each product to ensure the skin isn’t
over-stimulated. When layering, start with
water consistency-type products, then gels,
lotions, cream and oils, in that order. Some
oil-based serums maybe too oily for the day
and so best kept for night regimes.
Some ingredients are photo-sensitive,
such as retinol/vitamin A. These are best
used at night.
Serums generally shouldn’t be used
alone (ie. without moisturisers) unless the
serum is in a lipid lotion/cream base and
it offers enough skin comfort and hydration.
There is always a risk when mixing
different brands of serums. For instance,
O Cosmedics serums have a liquid crystal
base and deliver y system. Used with other
serums it may block out their ability to
penetrate the skin, especially if used in
the wrong order.
* Marie Enna-Cocciolone is CEO and founder of
Inskin Cosmedics and O Cosmedics.
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