Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 61 May 2015 Contents FASHION COLOUR STYLE
THE ROAD TO REDEMPTION
Weekly manicures, including regular use
of a nail strengthener such as OPI Nail
Env y (there are five types to suit specific
problems, all with hydrolyzed wheat
protein, vitamin C and calcium).
Reconditioning oils and creams should
be used by clients on a daily basis at
home, applied on the nail and around the
cuticle area to help stimulate blood flow
to the “matrix” or “mother” of the nail
(the area between the cuticle and the first
knuckle, where the cell growth area is).
When applying gels, either at home
or in-salon, the system should include
products that help the natural nail keep
in good condition while the product is
on, such as OPI Bondaid nail prep.
We use it to remove excess oils and
moisture on the nail plate, bringing the
nail back to a neutral PH balance of 5.5
and, most importantly, minimise the
medications a person is putting into their
system. This way gel products adhere to
the natural nails without dehydrating,
weakening or damaging them.
At Jessica, we teach salons Natural Nail
Cultivation. By prov iding this ser v ice you
will retain clients. If and when clients
need a break from gels, it also enables
them to switch to natural nail care.
Ever yone should have these Jessica
products for hands and cuticles, for
home care and in-salon:
• Nourish: A therapeutic cuticle formula.
• Phenomenon: The wonder oil to
maintain and hydrate.
• A good hand cream to avoid dry
patches around the nail groove. Try
Hand and Body Emulsion, which
contains super hydrating soya.
• A good hydrating basecoat, such as
Jessica’s Reward. It should be used at
And I can stress enough that leaving
nails uncovered to “breathe” is a myth
and creates more nail dryness, peeling
“ What I mean by `respect’ is that gel colours and acrylics should
NEVER be peeled off or removed by slipping a tip or other item in
between the natural nail and the acrylic or gel.
“Also, if artificial nails are applied and refilled in unsanitary
conditions (for instance, dirty work space, dirty/reused
implements including files and buffers), this also can result in
nail infections, nails separating from the nail bed and especially
bacterial/fungal nail infections.
“It can take four months or more for a client’s damaged nails to
recover - or they may not recover, depending on the damage.”
Rose Bolam, educator for Jessica Cosmetics Australia, and
her daughter Chantelle co -own Artfully Polished Beauty in
Newcastle, NSW. This is the salon we profiled in our last issue,
whose prime focus restoring and maintaining a client’s natural
nail health and strength.
“Beautiful nails are not born, they are carefully cultivated,” says
Rose. “By using the correct products and an individually customised
regimen you can help any client achieve healthy beautiful natural
nails. This proves to them that you are worth coming back to.
“Damage to the nail plate impedes regrowth. It can result in
chronically thin, weak, soft, dry or flaky nails that lack lustre or
colour, constantly split, crack or break and simply won’t grow. Nails
can also be extremely sensitive and tender.
“As hair and skin differ from person to person, so do nails. Thus
the same treatment protocol cannot be right for ever yone.
“Jessica’s is a complete system that cultivates natural nails,
bringing them back to health so they will grow long and strong.
“At Artfully Polished Beauty, we don’t just do `regular’ manicures
anymore but Analyze, Cultivate, Customise and Prescribe for
optimum results, especially for clients whose nails are damaged.
“It might sound like a waste of time but it only takes two minutes.
Other wise, it’s a bit like a doctor prescribing medicine without a
“Too many salons focus mainly on the cosmetic look. If the nail
foundation is unhealthy, polish or gel will not last and nails will keep
deteriorating. This is a key factor in why many salons are not successful.”
Rose attributes the upsurge we are seeing in damaged, infected
nails and cuticles (“Cutting cuticles is an absolute NO-NO,” she
stresses. “By doing so you are remov ing the natural seal, which
exposes clients to infections and hangnails”) to some key factors:
• More “fly by night” nail bars and salons
• Increased internet purchases of cheap imitation products
• Internet self tuition
• Low cost start-ups, attracting inexperienced or untrained nail
technicians because they are cheaper
Salons that regard nail ser vices as low profit and so are
lackadaisical about these ser vices; ergo, poor screening of nail
technicians and will settle for anybody who can just do a paint.
“The nail industry has to be taken more seriously and the
potential for poor outcomes recognised,” Rose says.
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