Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 62 July 2015 Contents SKIN BODY
vitamin A derivatives, which should mostly
only be used at night, they do not interact
with sunlight and can be used during the day.
In fact, a few sunscreens already include
DNA repair ingredients – such as DNA
Renewals’ new Sheer Defense.
A trademarked DNA Enzyme Complex
is core to Elizabeth Arden Pro’s Cellular
Recover y Serum.
This ground-breaking professional-
only range was developed at the behest
of Elizabeth Arden by chemist and
cosmeceutical skincare researcher Joe
Lewis, famously known for introducing
some of the world's most cutting- edge
skincare ingredients including alpha-
hydroxy acid (AHA) in 1983, Idebenone in
2004 and CoffeeBerry in 2007.
And so to telomerase ...
Award-winning American molecular
biologist and research scientist Dr Bill
Andrews' business card says it all: "Cure
Ageing or Die Trying".
More than 20 years and US $33 million
has been spent by his biotech company
Sierra Sciences unlocking the molecular
mechanisms of ageing. It resulted in the
launch last year of a revolutionary skincare
product - 1Truth Serum - utilising Dr
Andrews’ award-winning discover y, the
telomerase-activating molecule TAM-818.
Inside the cell nucleus our genes are
arranged along twisted, double-stranded
molecules of DNA: chromosomes. At the
ends of the chromosomes are stretches of
DNA called telomeres, which protect genetic
data, enable cells to divide, and hold some
secrets to how we age and get cancer.
With ageing, telomeres shorten ever y
time a cell divides until they are rendered
useless and are unable to support the DNA.
This shortening has been shown to have
direct correlation with ageing and age-
Scientists have k nown about telomeres
since the 1930s, and that they get shorter as
we get older since the 1970s.
But it wasn’t until the discover y in the
1990s by Dr Andrews and his team that
anyone k new how this shortening might
be prevented – indeed, the telomeres
potentially re-lengthened; hence generate a
reversal of ageing processes in the body.
The discovery was of telomerase, an
enzyme that, when switched on in the body,
will not only stop telomeres shortening but
re-lengthen them. Then Sierra Sciences
analysed close to 300,000 synthetic
compounds in the search of the strongest
In 2013 New Zealand’s Chase Life
Extension Foundation approached Dr
Andrews to use TAM-818 in skincare.
“Over the years I have been approached
by many charlatans wanting to do all sorts of
things with my research,” he says. "But what
I discovered was a company that wanted to
create life-changing products that could be
backed up with concrete ev idence.
“A fter formulating 1Truth Serum
[launched in Australia last year] they then
spent hundreds of thousands of dollars
getting it independently tested at the world-
renowned Abich Laboratories in Italy. Even
I was amazed by how good the results were.”
Vitamin A's dramatic skincare benefits were
revealed in 1979 by Dr Albert Kligman, a
professor of dermatology at the University
of Pennsylvania, who was working on acne
“His acne patients in their 30s and 40s
reported that not only was retinoid acid
controlling their breakouts but they were
seeing improvements n their wrinkles,
blotchiness, skin tone and texture,” says
Dr Daniel Yarosh, who is responsible for
the worldwide basic research of the Estee
Lauder Companies. “Their photoaged skin
was literally being rejuvenated.
“In 1984, Dr Kligman and his colleagues
announced that topical tretinoin, to be called
Retin A, enhanced the repair of dermal
connective tissue damaged by sunlight.”
It was conclusively proven in 1996 that
vitamin A is the only chemical that is
capable of reprogramming cells.
Prescription formulas contain retinoic
acid, the “magic ingredient” that fights
visible ageing. Non-prescription alternatives
need to be converted into retinoic acid by
the skin at the cellular level.
"In off-the-shelf formulas, the ingredient
called retinol is the only derivative of vitamin
A worth using," says Dana Sachs, an associate
professor of dermatology at the University of
Michigan Medical School in the US.
"There's a lot of literature showing that
while retinol is more gentle than retinoic
acid, biochemically it does exactly the same
thing - it may just take longer to see results."
Derivatives called pro -retinols (retinyl
palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate)
are the most gentle - but weaker, too.
“ There is a fundamental connection
between health and appearance, and as
soon as a patient/client achieves one it is
not unreasonable that they will expect the
other! ” says Helen A nton, director of the
Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing (A5M).
“At this year’s annual conference in
Melbourne, The Skin Triad - An Integrative
Approach to Skin Health, was a ver y
important workshop to identify how we can
build a bridge between internal medicine
and external/aesthetic medicine, thus
ensuring better cosmetic outcomes for the
“It is by using integrative treatment
protocols and combining nutrition,
pharmaceuticals and skincare that will help
achieve optimal skin health for common
skin conditions and achieve more successful
outcomes pre- and post- cosmetic treatments
THE ROLE OF STEM CELLS
Human stem cells can regenerate and form almost any cell type in the body.
They contain two key components: growth factors, which play a role in cell
division, the growth of new cells, and the production of collagen and elastin;
and proteins, which regulate that stem-cell division.
“As we age, our stem cells become lazy, sluggish, and even dormant,
therefore no longer performing their designated function,” says Veronica Harris,
US national educator at DermaQuest.
“Plant stem cells in skincare are useful in that they will communicate a specific
function that the cells can begin to perform while protecting and repairing
“The plant-based stem cells that we use will not of course reproduce human
stem cells. However, they do have an impact on our own cells.”
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