Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 62 July 2015 Contents SKIN BODY
as a cellular protectant with great potential
as a nutritional supplement and for topical
skincare applications, such as for rosacea.
DermaQuest utilises lilac in a number of its
skincare lines and treatment protocols.
Other ingredients to look out for include
red hogweed root extract, Avena Sativa (oat
kernel) extract, avena sativa plant, ginger
and bisabolol (derived from chamomile),
red raspberry, evening primrose oil,
lavender, licorice, sea buckthorn, avocado,
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide
“Rosacea has probably been one of the
most misdiagnosed and misunderstood
skin disorders in the history of the human
race,” says paramedical skincare pioneer
Danne Montague King, creator of DMK
professional and homecare products
“The symptoms of are so variable that
many people have been treated for it when
they were suffering from some other skin
disorder and many people who had rosacea
were treated for common acne.
“The term Acne Rosacea was a common
medical diagnosis a few years ago. Now it is
no longer considered a valid disorder under
“Most severe skin disorders put
fear into beauty therapists, who have
been taught to refer the client to a
“But I can boldly say that there has
been as much success in treating various
symptoms of rosacea by advanced beauty
therapists as there has been by physicians.
“Therapists are capable of dealing
with these symptoms of rosacea: Flushing,
er ythema, papules and pustules, oedema
(unless chronic), kerstitis (unless drug
related) comedones and scarring (if trained
in scar rev ision techniques).
"But when rosacea affects the eyes
(B/Conjunctivitis) it must have medical
treatment only, as with Rhinophyma.
The latter mainly affects men; the nose is
grossly swollen, deep red and sometimes
has fissures in the skin and swollen veins.
Taking on clients with these disorders is
does affect all races,” says Emma Hobson,
Education Manager at the International
Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.
“In terms of what triggers flare-ups,
the number one culprit seems to be sun
exposure, followed by emotional stress, hot
weather, w ind, heav y exercise, smoking and
certain foods and beverages [see list].
“Incorrect skin care products and hair
sprays can also aggravate it. Ingredients in
skincare products clients are recommended
to avoid include alcohol, w itch hazel,
fragrances, hydro -alcoholic, acetone,
comedogenic ingredients, soap, menthol,
peppermint, eucalyptus oil, chemical
sunscreen and topical steroids.
“Exfoliation needs to be performed
with caution. Clients should avoid
active ex foliants, especially those that
contain hydroxy acids. I personally like
Dermalogica’s microfoliation using
rice bran powder, as it is effective but
“Home care products to recommend
are ‘ultra-calming’ cleansers, toners,
masks and serums and protective barrier-
“Hydration is a key factor in keeping
the skin healthy as well as using products
that work on both immunogenic and
“For hydration, recommend serums,
masks and other treatment products that
contain hyaluronic acid.
“Products that have a natural green
tint are fantastic at diminishing the
appearance of redness, such as corrective
creams and concealers.
“Sun protection should come in the
form of a physical sunscreen as chemical
sunscreens can cause irritation.”
In professional treatments, Emma says
rosacea sufferers benefit from pressure
point massage over the deep tissue kind.
One of the best forms is manual lymph
drainage to help reduce any excess tissue
fluid and aid the lymphatic system.
“Cooling masks and clinical colloidal
oatmeal masks are the perfect choice for
this skin condition, as well as incorporating
LED light (yellow and green).
“In recent years, researchers have
successfully developed active ingredients
through plant tissue culturing,” says
Sean Abel distributor in Australia of
DermaQuest. “Many medicinal, nutritional
and cosmetic active ingredients have been
enhanced through this technology.
“Recognised for its attractive and highly
recognisable, sweet-smelling clusters of pink,
purple or white flowers, the lilac has been
known throughout histor y for its medicinal
properties; its leaves and fruit, tonic are used
to control fever, disease and skin disorders. “
The extract of the lilac contains the
defense molecule verbascoside (also known
as acteoside). It functions to protect the
plant against physical, environmental and
Recent studies have revealed that
verbascoside is highly effective in humans
Licorice (left) and ginger (right) are among the natural acive skincare
ingredients that have proved beneficial for treatring rosacea.
Evening primrose oil is
considered another beneficial
natural ingredient, used topically
and taken as supplements
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