Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 63 October 2015 Contents MEDI
"There is minimal discomfort and minimal recovery time."
Microneedling goes by various names depending on the supplier
of the training or equipment -- you may hear it called skin needling,
dermal rolling, dermal stamping, percutaneous collagen induction
(PCI) and collagen induction therapy (CIT) among them.
There are two main types of devices -- a manual roller (think a
paint roller for the face but with tiny needles poking out) or, as is
more commonly the case now, a mechanical "pen" or "stamp" that
the needles thrust from and retract into at high speed, using micro-
fine needles of various diameters and lengths (up to 3mm).
Among microneedling's benefits is that it tightens, lifts and
rejuvenates the skin, reduces keloid scars, surgical and acne scars
and stretch marks, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, decreases pore
size and aids in hair regeneration when combined with topical
growth factors such as Factor G6 and Factor4
Another form of the modality is Meta Therapy, a trademark of
the Dermatude brand/device.
Dermatude's needle stamp has 18 ultra-thin needles that create
thousands of invisible micro-perforations with a speed of 100-120
injections per second.
The stamp has a cur ved surface, guaranteeing an equal depth of
all needles no matter the irregular shape of the treated skin.
Its digital hand piece means the speed of the device and depth
of perforations can be easily controlled and adjusted; perforations
only go to a depth of 0.2-0.5
This activates the natural regeneration of the skin, as per micro
needling, while delivering the exact amount of active ingredients
(supplied with the device) in the layer of the skin where they can be
The procedure involves minimal to no pain and does not cause
the skin to bleed.
"The drive of the needle injections is essential for an optimal
result," says Dale Steedman, CEO of Embody Beauty and Health
Equipment, distributor in Australia of Dermatude.
"The pens of many microneedling devices have an analogue
drive, meaning there are no corrections of the needle frequency
caused by the resistance of the skin. This results in irregular
perforations in different skin zones.
"Also, some microneedling techniques use too -needles to
perforate the deeper layer of the dermis.
"This poses a risk of irreparable subcutaneous damage, similar
to scar formation with second degree skin burns. The skin then
becomes stiff and hardens by loss of elasticity."
For microneedling treatments with depths greater than 0.5mm,
it is necessary to apply topical anesthetic between 15 and 40 minutes
before the procedure.
Cautions Dr Gabrielle Caswell, president of the Cosmetic
Physicians College of Australasia: "A client is not going to endure
the pain of, say, a 3mm needling device without adequate
anaesthesia -- and usually adequate anaesthesia involves scheduled
medications which the therapist cannot use."
So it's more good news from aforementioned Dr Setterfield that
the deeper range of penetration with microneedling may not be
necessary for achieving collagen stimulation.
"The latest research shows that there is little difference between
a 1mm and a 3mm needling device in terms of new collagen
growth," he says.
It's important for your clients to understand that microneedling
is not a quick fix treatment and usually a series of treatments are
required for optimum results.
"You will notice a fresher skin within six weeks," says Sean Abel,
distributor of Dermastamp, "but it will continue to improve over
6 -12 months.
"In terms of the number of treatments, for skin rejuvenation, 4-6
treatments four weeks apart are recommended; and for scar and
acne scar reduction, six-plus treatments four weeks apart.
"You should ensure clients know in advance that their skin will be
red to pink after wards and that it may last from 12-24 hours on average.
"They should use nothing active on their skin for a minimum
two days, such as AHAs, retinol (vitamin A) or anything acidic.
"Instead, only a soothing cleanser to clean, hyaluronic acid to
help hydrate as skin will become very dry, copper and zinc to help
heal and protect."
It's also important to remind clients that results will vary from
person to person.
"It is easy to establish the validity of skin needling by performing
a punch biopsy pre- and post-treatment to determine the new
collagen growth as a quantitative figure," says April of AACDS.
"However, the quantity and quality of new collagen laid down
varies considerably between individuals."
So, get stuck in -- and do your homework!
SOME DEVICES TO CONSIDER
Eclipse Micropen: ARCHITECTSOFSKIN.COM.AU
Derma CIT Pen: DERMAVIDUALS.COM.AU
CIT Chi Pen: CHIAUSTRALIA.COM
Medik8 Skinrolla Professional:
86 | SPA+CLINIC
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