Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 63 October 2015 Contents AESTHETICS
By Timnat Slavin
Betty, 60, came to see me in a distraught state. She had
a severe inflammation on her neck climbing towards her
face. I noted blisters and skin weeping.
Because of her severely dehydrated skin. she had been to
a therapist five days earlier who gave her a peel with high
levels of glycolic acid and glycolic home care.
I realised Betty had suffered a chemical burn and I needed
to prevent infection from occurring and to calm and heal the
skin. Golden rule: NEVER use acids on dehydration.
Her skin wasn't able to tolerate a treatment at that point,
so I prescribed acute home care; Ambulance Remedy from
the Unstress range to heal the burn and reduce the chance
of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
It contains probiotics to promote the skin's cell defence
mechanisms and powerful anti-inflammatory ingredients.
I also prescribed a rich occlusive mask containing sea
buckthorn -- an ingredient used medicinally for the treatment
of radiation burns, bed sores and duodenal ulcers.
Five days later there was absolutely no sign of the injury,
or scarring or pigmentation. I was then able to give her
Unstress facial treatments to complete the healing process.
By Dr Christian Jurist*
Rosacea is a chronic
and progressive, micro-
disorder resulting in
congestion, and quite
often papules and
Primarily, the triggers
should be avoided, such
as extreme temperature
changes, sun exposure,
cosmetic products, spicy
foods, alcoholic beverages like wine, and hot beverages
such as coffee.
Then a proper, gentle and dedicated skin care
regimen should be followed in conjunction with medical
management, if necessary.
Products to soothe, cool and calm are the main focus;
in addition, ingredients to support healthy micro-capillary
circulation and proper skin nutrition.
Pevonia offers the RS2 Rosacea range for home use and
a professional treatment mask administered at a qualified
salon or spa, with ingredients such as green tea, licorice,
chamomile and French rose extracts.
Doctors mostly rely on antibiotics to control a certain
population of micro-organisms that can worsen the
condition, such as the parasite demodex folliculorum
within skin follicles, and/or helicobacter pylori bacteria at
* Medical director of global education for Pevonia
One of Jan Marini's most popular
anti-inflammatory products is Peptide
Extreme hydrating lotion. It contains a
complex peptide mix as well as numerous
botanical extracts. Highly effective as
a moisturiser for procedure-induced
inflammation (reduces downtime
significantly) or as a daily moisturiser
where inf lammation is diagnosed.
* Distributor for Jan Marini Skin
Research in Australia.
DEFEND THE BARRIER
* By Simone Vescio
Apart from environmental factors such
as pollution, harsh winds in winter,
increased sun exposure in summer, and
indoor climate control (heating or air
conditioning), one of the biggest factors
leading to skinf lammation is the chemical
mismatch of products your clients use in
their daily routines.
Your clients' skins will need to be
repaired and replenished to ensure the first
barrier of defense is working for them, not
Although the stratum corneum - the
horny layer - is biologically dead, it still
fulfills metabolism functions, for instance
through the activity of enzymes.
Among these are hydrolases, which
can break down triglycerides into di- and
monoglycerides as well as glycerin and
fatty acids, but also proteases, which
ensure the supply of amino acids in
order to maintain the NMF (natural
moisturising factor) from proteins.
The NMF is the most effective protection
of the skin against premature ageing
proccesses; it moisturises the skin and is the
natural radical scavenger of the skin.
The sensitive balance of the skin surface
should not be disturbed by external
inf luences like inappropriate hygienic
measures (over-washing and exfoliation)
and cosmetic products that take and disrupt
the skin's barrier defence systems - soaps
SLSs and surfactants among others.
Corneotherapy is the science centred
on recovery of the stratum corneum
and maintaining its health. It is the
cornerstone of Dermaviduals treatments
and products. Another way of seeing
it is that is provides the link between
dermatology and cosmetics.
It is likened to an "outside in" thereapy,
where "outside" is the stratum corneum
and "in" are the therapeutic effects starting
in the stratum corneum and and working
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