Home' Spa and Clinic : Volume 63 October 2015 Contents AESTHETICS
their way into the deeper layers. Essentially
the skin cannot be corrected if the stratum
corneum is not in equilibrium.
Many clinicians use treatments on their
clients without first ascertaining the level of
cellular damage or the bi-layers of the skin.
This can result in expensive, repeat
treatments that do not obtain the desired
results or may even fail completely.
Before any treatment or products are
prescribed, a thorough examination of
the condition of the bi-layers of the skin is
undertaken by Dermviduals clinicians.
It is important during this process not
to upset the acid mantle, but rather give
it what it needs to maintain harmony.
Then, and only then, can you give it the
"super food" via advanced pure products
that it needs.
By Tracey Twomey
Steve came to me
about the way he
felt he looked. He's
55 and has been a
surfer most of his life.
His skin was
said it made him
feel "old and past
his state of mind
was that he was
job hunting and getting nowhere -- the rejections or just being ignored really
impacted on him -- and he had a young family to support.
I discovered Mayerling peels and products after I had throat cancer several
years ago. The radiation left me with terrible scarring.
Dermatologists basically told me there was nothing I could do but let them
fade (maybe) over time. I wasn't happy with that prognosis after everything I had
Then a friend told me about Mayerling, which was developed by a Sydney
plastic surgeon, Dr Lawrence Ho.
After several peels my scarring was no longer noticeable. That's when I
decided to start my clinic SkinSecrets [in Sydney's Balgowlah] and use Mayerling
there, to help other people.
I call myself a personal grooming stylist rather than a beauty therapist because
I want to attract male clientele as well as women, which I have successfully done.
I devise treatment plans for my clients and see them about once a month.
Steve had four Mayerling salicylic peels over eight weeks (his after photo was
taken six weeks after his first visit, after his second peel) and used Mayerling
products at home. And sunscreen of course!
He saw results very quickly and was just over the moon.
He now has a new job -- he feels that the energy he was putting out when
going for interviews when he was feeling down may have contributed to his lack
of success -- and he generally feels much, much happier and more confident
about himself and the future.
So what was once seen as a layer of
"dead" cells whose sole function was to
provide an impermeable barrier has
suddenly come "alive".
* Managing director of derma aesthetics,
distributor in Australia of Dermaviduals
FIND A BALANCE
* By Paul Fister
Dr Horst Spiller based his research and
his formulation work on the premise that
'the body knows best'. His aim was to
reproduce the conditions found on young,
Our body is in a constant quest to reach
and maintain homeostasis. A huge body of
research tells us much about the processes
that lead to this state of balance in the skin.
The acid mantle, the skin's natural
protective cover, is vital in this respect. It
ensures healthy levels of hydration in the
skin, supporting the natural processes which
give us good skin. Professor Raab from
Vienna University claims that we would lose
20 litres of water through the skin if it wasn't
protected by the acid mantle.
Enzymes ensuring the skin's natural
desquamation [exfoliation] processes
lose their function in an environment
of dehydration. That is why dehydrated
skins often look sallow and lifeless -- dead
skin cells cannot shed in the natural way.
Products containing acids were designed
to help the skin shed those dead cells -- but
in the process they contribute to moisture
loss and therefore further inhibit those
enzymes, perpetuating the problem.
A product that is based on biomimetic
principles (ie. designed to reproduce the
conditions found on healthy skin) will
ensure that the skin reaches and stays in
For a cream to be truly biomimetic
it needs to meet the requirement of
point it must be of the "water-in-oil" type,
Scientific research has proven that
W/O creams hydrate the skin longer and
better, and therefore protect it better from
dehydration, inf lammation and oxidation,
and generally deliver a higher proportion of
The Dr Spiller Rinazell Cream is a good
example as it contains various supportive
and regenerative ingredients, particularly
lactic (milk) peptides. Aloe Cleansing
Milk is a very mild yet effective cleanser;
it doesn't strip the skin's protective acid
mantle. Jojoba Peel contains spherical
jojoba wax beads. They don't have sharp
edges and therefore don't cause micro -
injuries like crushed walnut shells or
Improper care of our skin can
damage this protective layer consists of
sebum, perspiration and NMFs (natural
moisturising factor chemicals).
Cleansing routines are a main culprit.
Soap and other harsh cleansers strip
natural oils out of the skin, weakening
The result is rapid loss of moisture,
resulting in symptoms such as a tight feeling
and rough skin.
It is even claimed that water-based
skin care creams contain emulsifiers that
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