Home' Spa and Clinic : SPA Vol-66 July 2016 Contents AESTHETICS
randomly – often in response to marketing
or advertising hype - with disastrous results.
Using the wrong products for their skin
type or concerns or the wrong combination
of products can result in ferocious fallout
- from weakened skin that becomes
vulnerable to developing lines, wrinkles and
pigmentation, to acne breakouts, persistent
redness and highly sensitised, inflamed skin
that can’t tolerate anything on it.
A skincare therapist needs to educate
clients that, to achieve and maintain
optimal skin health, their products
and protocols should be specifically
(professionally) prescribed for their
individual needs, as they would seek a
prescription from a doctor to address a
DON’T BREAK THE BARRIER
A therapist needs to ensure that a client's
first barrier of skin defence - the stratum
corneum - is working for them, not
against them, according to Simone Vescio,
managing director of derma aesthetics,
distributor in Australia of dermaviduals.
“Although the stratum corneum - the
horny layer - is biologically dead, it still
fulfills metabolism functions, for instance
through the activity of enzymes," she says.
“ The sensitive balance of the skin
surface should not be disturbed by external
inf luences like inappropriate hygienic
measures (over-washing and exfoliation)
and cosmetic products that disrupt the
skin’s barrier defence systems - soaps, SLSs
and surfactants among others.
“Corneotherapy is the science centred
on recovery of the stratum corneum and
maintaining its health. It is the cornerstone
of Dermaviduals treatments and products.
“It is likened to an `outside in' therapy,
where `outside' is the stratum corneum and
` in' the therapeutic effects starting in the
stratum corneum and working way into the
deeper layers. Essentially the skin cannot
be corrected if the stratum corneum is not
“It is important not to upset the acid
mantle, but rather give it what it needs to
maintain harmony. Then, and only then,
can you give it the `super food' via advanced
pure products that it needs.”
BRIGHTEN, NOT BURN
One of the most significant inflammatory
responses that can occur when the skin
is aggressively treated is, of course,
Well educated and experienced
dermal therapists know that, if treating
pigmentation with peels, they must be of
the kind that work to repair the skin from
within – not scour off the dark spots and
patches as if scrubbing a saucepan clean.
The outcome of this will likely be that
skin becomes more deeply pigmented than
it was originally, perhaps irreversibly.
“Harsh peels and other more invasive
treatments are a double edged sword,” says
Luca Mora, CEO at Skey ndor.
“The skin may look great after the
treatment but inf lammation and redness
can then set in and linger for months.
In worst cases, scarring and rebound
hyperpigmentation can occur, and the skin
rendered sensitised and reactive longterm.
“Strong chemical peels work by burning
the skin layers to different depths to produce
new skin by activating the skin’s own repair
mechanism - triggering pro-inflammatory
cytokines and inflammatory mediators to
activate the wound healing pathways.
“Basically, this means hoping for the best
that the skin will heal itself without undue
side effects. Skeyndor believes in giving the
skin the correct nutrients to help it repair
itself from the inside.
“Our new DermaPeelPRO is the first
cosmeceutical sequential peel, capable of
delivering the result of a medical grade peel
without causing irritation or inflammation -
thus respecting the skin’s integrity.”
A peeling system dedicated to the non-
aggressive treatment of pigmentation is
Cosmelan by mesoestetic.
“It is a non-cytotoxic depigmenting
method that progressively re-programs
the melanocyte activity of the skin,” says
mesoestetic international trainer Tina Note.
“Cosmelan has an intensive corrective
effect that regulates overproduction of
melanin in the melanocytes, inhibiting and
controlling the appearance of new dark spots
and eliminating existing hyperpigmentation.
It has a dual corrective and controlling
action, achieving short and long-term results.
“Formulas contain an exclusive
combination of active substances, which
act from the inside out on all phases of the
The new Skeyndor' DermaPeelPRO
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