Home' Spa and Clinic : SPA Vol-67 October 2016 Contents Top Tips For
more consistent, and this helps skin benefit from skin-repairing
ingredients in targeted night-time products.
Inadequate and/or poor sleep can lead to increased stress hormones
in the body that increase the severity of inflammatory skin conditions
such as acne, psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis, and skin sensitivity.
You need any where between seven and nine hours sleep.
However, it also has to be quality undisturbed sleep, because sleep
phases determine the healing and regeneration ability. If you are
waking up ever y couple of hours, no matter that you have slept eight
hours, your body will not recover fully.
During undisturbed sleep (or slow-wave sleep), the plasma
growth hormone (human growth hormone – somatropin) in
humans is found to be at its highest levels. If the sleep stage
process is interrupted, complete repair of soft tissues is impossible
due to the resulting decrease or absence of human growth
hormone – somat ropin.
Increased inflammatory cells in the body lead to an increase in
the breakdow n of collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Not enough sleep makes immune-related skin problems
worse. Increased inflammation interferes with the body’s ability
to regulate the immune system, leading to flare-ups of immune-
related skin diseases such as psoriasis and eczema.
During sleep the body’s hydration rebalances. Skin is able
to recover moisture, while excess water in general in the body is
processed for removal. Not getting enough sleep results in poor
water balance, leading to puffy bags under the eyes and under-eye
circles, as well as dryness and more v isible wrinkles.
During deep sleep, an increase in the production of growth
hormones allows damaged cells to become repaired. Without
the deeper phases of sleep, this won’t occur, allowing daily small
breakdowns to accumulate instead of being reversed overnight.
This results in more noticeable signs of ageing.
INGREDIENTS THAT WORK THE NIGHT SHIFT
Choose ingredients that work with the skin’s night-time functions
and don’t over- challenge the skin (ie. not overly active).
For example, vitamin C by nature of its UVB protective benefits,
is better suited to day time care. Retinol and its derivatives are
better suited to night care as they deg rade readily in sunlight.
This is by no means a complete list, however these are excellent
night-shift ingredients to look for in formulations:
• Skin-Restoring Ingredients (particularly hydration boosting
ingredients): Hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), sodium PCA,
tehalose, CollaxylTM, ceramides, LipegenineTM, seabuckthorn 2.
• Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant (functioning as skin
healing agents and immune-builders): resveratrol, astaxanthin,
niacinamide, Pycnogenol, St John’s Wort, QuintescineTM, arnica,
centella asiatica, calendula, chamomile.
• Cell Communicators : Retinol (and derivatives), melatonin,
pentapeptides, adenosine, glycoproteins, minerals (magnesium,
selenium, zinc), carnosine.
• Probiotics (to help restore correct f lora levels): VenuceaneTM,
lactobacillus ferment, yeast extract.
• Proteins: Essential fatty acids, GLA, various peptides, soy/silk/
wheat proteins, amino acids (creatine, alanine, glycine)
Matoyla Kollaras is managing director of Skin Factors, distributors in
Australia of Christina Cosmeceuticals and Ahava Dead Sea skincare.
IT MIGHT SEEM obvious how to prepare
the skin for bed, but when we’re tired it’s
tempting to skip a few steps (or all the
steps!) and the cumulative effects are not
pretty. The fundamentals:
Cleanse: This is a given, but how
many times have you or your clients fallen
into bed without taking the time to clear
away the dirt and grime of the day? It all
builds up – literally – and can lead to ver y
sallow, tired-looking in the morning and
the potential for breakouts.
Remove all makeup : Cleansing alone
does not always remove makeup, especially
around the eyes. Use a dedicated eye
makeup remover and smooth it across
eyelids and through the lashes. Then use a
cotton pad to wipe the residue off.
Exfoliate: Because the skin has
more time to make use of active product
ingredients while you sleep, smooth the
way with an exfoliant, but only two or
three times a week (even less if skin is
ver y delicate or reactive) as more often
can dry the skin.
Apply a toner: These help to remove
any extra makeup and cleanser residue
that remains (it’s surprising how much
there can be!) as well as dead cell build-
up still on your face.
Moisturise: This is another given, as
even when using skin-friendly cleansers
we can wash away essential oils; for
instance use a serum, dedicated night-
time moisturiser and maybe even an
oil on top (see next page) for optimum
benefits. Take an extra couple of minutes
and use a deep moisturiser on the extra
dry areas of the body, such as elbows,
knees, heels and hands and feet.
Switch to silk pillowcases: Facial skin
can be tugged and pulled, depending
on the position you sleep in and how
much you move around in your sleep. Silk
pillowcases don’t pull on skin.
Sleep on your back: Pushing your
face into your pillow can contribute to
wrinkles and creases. Try sleeping on your
back instead (though it might take some
getting used to for foetal position folk!).
Use a humidifier: Keeping moisture
in the air will help prevent skin from
drying out. Make sure to fill the
humidifier each night so it remains fresh
and doesn’t run out of water.
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