Home' Spa and Clinic : SPA Vol-68 Feb 2017 Contents experiencing irritation and inf lammation;
their skin has become uncomfortable and
hard to manage.
“ There is a place for all of these
treatments but they should be
recommended by someone who has the
knowledge to treat skin concerns properly,
and used accordingly.
“For instance, clients who may have
prev iously had oily/combination skin
have dried it out so much that they
develop a lot of blackheads caused by
dehydration. Blackheads in an oily skin are
“It's very important to have the right
products and treatments to suit individual
skin conditions and concerns.
“ When people `prescribe’ for themselves,
they often choose the wrong thing.”
Judith says her first steps at “damage
control” are identifying clients’ skin type
and what they are using at home.
“ We then work out what they should
continue using and what they should
replace with another product,” she says.
“I recommend a couple of good facials
close together so that I can work on
achiev ing a more harmonious balance in
their skin and start to repair the damage.
“ Then, I look at products for them to use
at home so that they can look after their
skin in-between our salon treatments.
“I chose Luzern Laboratories products
for my salon, as irritants and toxins are
never found in this range. This pure
cosmeceutical doesn't harm the skin and it
yields ultra-effective results.
“I often prescribe Luzern Serum Absolut
- RC for relief from rosacea, redness, flare-
ups and inflammation. It soothes irritation
and speeds up the healing process for
“The inflammatory response stresses the
skin’s natural repair process, damages
its protective barrier and breaks down
collagen, hastening the appearance of lines
and wrinkles and, ironically, undermining
the very function of anti-ageing skin care
– to slow ageing of the skin,” says Ralph
Hebert, co -founder of aforementioned
Luzern Laboratories; products formulated
in the US with ingredients largely sourced
from the pristine Valais alpine region
Luzern skincare is at the forefront of
clean beauty innovations with pure, cold-
processed formulas using high efficacy
“One of the primary reasons Luzern
products get such excellent results is the
effort we take to eliminate the chemicals
and toxins that cause inflammation and
irritation,” Ralph says.
“We use natural preservative systems
that prevent product spoilage, but do not
have the toxic side effects of chemical
preser vatives such as parabens and those
that release formaldehyde.
“At Luzern we always look for ingredients
that work the best, ones that are, ideally,
natural and organically grown and that are
non-toxic and non-irritating.
“ When we do use man-made ingredients
we will only use ones that are proven safe
(such as peptides, that are actually strings
of natural amino acids linked together to
produce an effective anti-ageing benefit for
“ When properly formulated, these
ingredients work in harmony to give your
skin the best that nature and science have to
offer, and you’ll see the difference.”
“In the 1990s in the US, it was almost
as if women had declared war on their
skin,” says Jane Wurwand, founder of
Dermalogica. “Over-exfoliation, in the form
of multiple medispa procedures and the
compounded effects of aggressive products,
In 2001 Dermalogica launched Daily
Microfoliant to offset this overzealousness.
It became an instant hit and is still a best
seller for the brand.
“Daily Microfoliant is more relevant
than ever, because many women still seek
out exfoliation regimens which are simply
too aggressive, especially as our population
ages,” Jane says.
“They do this because they have half
of the message right: that exfoliation is
key to healthier, more supple, `younger’
“But feeling and seeing the difference,
and experiencing the benefits of safely
exfoliated skin ever y day, changes how
people approach and appreciate their
WHEN FIXING A PROBLEM
MAKES IT WORSE
Timnat Slavin, owner and operator of
Madeca Total Beauty in Marsfield, Sydney,
and trainer for Christina Cosmeceuticals,
says one of the biggest mistakes people
make is using astringent or drying
products on excessively oily skin with
“ Wrong!” Timnat says. “The skin will
sense the drying effect and, to prevent
further dehydration, will activate the
sebaceous glands to produce even more
sebum as a protective mechanism – and
so the vicious cycle continues. This can
damage skin health in the long term.
“It’s the same with treating symptoms
of acne, such as blackheads. Some people
mistakenly believe they are caused by dirt
because of the colour and scrub their
faces v igorously.
“This harms far more than it helps. As
a therapist it’s important to remind your
clients of things like this when they are
taking care of their skin at home.”
FINDING A BALANCE
“Our body is in a constant quest to reach
and maintain homeostasis,” says Paul
Fister, distributor in Australia of Dr
“A huge body of research tells us much
about the processes that lead to this state of
balance in the skin.
“The acid (pH) mantle, the skin’s
natural protective cover (consisting of
sebum, perspiration and NMF; ie. Natural
Moisturising Factors), is vital in this respect.
“Professor Raab from Vienna University
says we would lose 20 litres of water through
the skin if it wasn’t protected by the
“Cleansing routines are a main culprit.
Soap and other harsh cleansers strip
natural oils out of the skin, weakening
“The result is rapid loss of moisture,
resulting in sy mptoms such as a tight feeling
and rough skin.
“It is even claimed that water-based skin
care creams contain emulsifiers that disturb
the skin’s natural equilibrium. Other factors
are wind, sun and weather, micro-organisms
and chemicals such as cleaning products.
“A damaged acid mantle will eventually
lead to low-level inflammation in the
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