Home' Spa and Clinic : SPA Vol-69 Autumn 2017 Contents AESTHETICS
therapies such as oral contraceptives and
HRT. Throw UV exposure into the equation
and melasma is made worse.
HITTING THE SPOTS
It can be a tricky condition to analyse
effectively just with the naked eye so l
recommend the use of a Woods Lamp or an
equivalent diagnostic device to be able to
classify what type of pigmentation you are
Epidermal: Dark brown colour with
ver y obvious demarcated borders. There
is an excessive amount of melanin in all
Dermal: Brown-grey lesions with not
ver y obvious borders. Melanin is found
between collagen bundles or within
melanophages (macrophages that have
Mixed: When examining with a Woods
Lamp or other device, pigmentation
appears to be more obvious in some areas
and not in others.
TYPES OF DISORDERS
Ephelides (freckles) are commonly seen in
fair-skinned individuals and are the result
of an increase in UV-induced pigmentation.
They appear on sun-exposed areas such as
face and back of the hands and are well-
demarcated, generally 1-3mm in size.
Solar lentigines (age spots) are also
commonly seen in fair-skinned individuals
over 60 on sun-exposed areas, especially the
face, back, forearms, backs of hands and
the upper chest. They appear as macules
or patches that are either oval, round or
irregularly shaped and can var y in colour
from tan to dark brown and range from
3mm to 2cm in size.
Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
is commonly seen in higher Fitzpatrick
skin types and is a consequence of the
melanocytes’ response to skin injury,
appearing as small to large macules and/
Melasma appears as a number of
hyperpigmented patches that range from
either one lesion to many patches and are
usually located symmetrically on the face.
A thorough and detailed consultation is
the first and essential step to ascertain
the potential trigger and how a realistic
outcome can be achieved.
Educating the client is also key to ensure
These clients were treated by
Vita, “The Skin Whisperer”, at
Coastal Plastic Surgery and Medi
Spa on NSW’s Central Coast.
She describes their individual
Client 1: "This client is in to
the peel at two weeks with a
fantastic result so far. She had
tried everything in the past at
other clinics and is new to us. She
was prepped four weeks prior to
the peel to pre-condition her skin
and has had Healite II LED sessions for management of the healing process. She
Client 2: This lady also had four weeks of skin prep ahead of the peel and
Healite II at regular intervals afterwards. Seen last at eight weeks. Great result!”
that they are contributing to a positive
outcome such as avoiding unnecessary sun
exposure, and using a broad spectrum sun
This is especially if we are choosing
to perform certain treatments that could
increase the risk of PIH.
If the client does not adhere to this
advice, treatment failure is inevitable.
Along with traditional laser and light
therapies, there are new advanced peeing
solutions such as the Cosmelan Method (see
more Page 74) that can achieve dramatic
improvements in hyperpigmentation
disorders including melasma. The latter, as
we know, is arguably the most challenging
and stubborn form to treat.
Cosmelan incorporates an in-clinic
treatment as well as a homecare product
protocol comprising topical ingredients
such as kojic acid, niacinamide (vitamin
B3), ascorbic acid, N -Acetylglucosamine
and retinol (vitamin A derivative) that can
help disrupt the pathways of melanogenesis.
Cosmelan is produced by Mesoestetic, a
leading specialist in cosmeceutical skincare.
The method is a two-stage process:
1. Professional treatment in- clinic to apply
a peeling solution that must be left on
the first night.
2. Home- care products and protocol to
maximise the clinic step, with instructions
to protect the skin at all times using an ultra-
high SPF sunscreen, reapplying regularly.
After the second or third week of
Cosmelan treatment, dark spots are lighter
and less noticeable while skin has a more
youthful appearance and radiant glow. It has
shown an effectiveness rate of 95-99% in cases
of skin spots and hyperpigmentation tested.
In 2015, Mesoestetic launched an
international campaign to develop a
Specialised Depigmentation Centre program
designed to qualify and certify a select
number of high quality skincare clinics as
specialised depigmentation centres. Forty
two clinics across Australia participated.
The training takes into consideration
a client’s commitment to treatment.
Cosmelan requires a 4 -month commitment
and if client is unable to comply, a different
treatment should be recommended.
Ongoing training and support is an
integral part of the exclusive scheme, with
qualifying clinics committed to attending
training schools and in-clinic training.
In order to be able to do this effectively
and with confidence, the clinician must
have comprehensive knowledge of the
product range, composition of the products
at hand, how to use them with machines,
protocols of application and home care
recommendations – making continuous
training an absolute must.
* Dora Erdossy is the national trainer (east coast
Australia) for Cosmelan products and protocols,
distributed by Advanced Cosmeceuticals, and is
currently lecturing for the Dermal Science degree
at Victoria University.
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