Home' Spa and Clinic : SPA Vol-71 Spring 2017 Contents AESTHETICS
Yes, we've been hearing about free
radical damage and antioxidants for many
years and it has been used to drive the sales
of many a skincare product with ingredients
designed to fight FRD.
But according to Dr Sadick, what
protection we apply TO the skin is not
The skin needs internal armour, as it
were -- and we all need to become a lot
much more conscious of that.
"I tell all my patients they must up
their oral intake of antioxidants," says Dr
Sadick. "Things like vitamins C and E and, a
favourite of mine, resveratrol [derived from
red grapes]." COSMETEX.ORG
BEWARE THE BLUE LIGHT!
A sinister new skin foe is emerging: High-
Energy Visible (HEV) rays emitted by the
screens that we all spend hours each day
staring at, as well as the sun.
Researchers have discovered that the blue
light emitted from smartphones, tablets,
laptops, desktop monitors and TV could be
more damaging to skin than UVA and UVB
rays from the sun, and even penetrate skin
deeply enough to affect DNA.
"We probably spend more time in
front of a screen than under the sun now,"
according to The Future Laboratory's
Beauty Futures Report.
"You can't even get into a taxi now without
being in front of a screen. Simply offering
SPF in products won't cut it any longer."
The report nominates French skincare
brand Dr Sebagh (created by Dr Jean-Louis
Sebagh, acknowledged as one of the premier
cosmetic doctors in Europe; much sought-
after by celebrities such as Cindy Crawford)
as having formulated the first day cream
to contain a unique melanin compound
designed to protect against HEV rays.
"When free radicals, which are the result
of multiple factors -- the most significant
being sun exposure in the form of UVA/UVB
light, HEV (blue light) and IR (infrared)
surpass the antioxidant defenses of the skin,
it causes damage to lipids and proteins of
the DNA skin oxidation leading to cellular
deterioration," says Dr Luis S. Luis, medical
director of mesoestetic Pharma Group
"This in turn leads to the ageing of skin
tissues and thus visible signs of ageing of
"While an SPF works on the skin to
reflect harmful UVA UVB rays, it is vital
to protect skin from the inside to protect
against cell degradation, DNA damage and
a weakened barrier function.
"This can be achieved with advanced
topical formulation such as mesoestetic's
new AOX Ferulic, which was developed to
provide a biological shield against oxidation
produced by UVB, UVA, IR and HEV.
"AOX Ferulic protects the natural
antioxidant system and barrier function of
the skin while helping to prevent and work
against oxidative cellular damage.
"The unique formulation includes ferulic
acid, which provides specific protection of
fibroblasts against UVA radiation, ascorbic
acid (vitamin C) to neutralise free radicals,
combined with mesoestetic's unique Protech-
Cell Complex, a complex made of vitamin E
and synthetic active ingredient, to provide
advanced dual antioxidant protection."
Says Megan Manco, SkinCeuticals
skincare Scientific Director: "There are a
multitude of things that are harmful to our
skin, from UV rays to a bad diet, but there
are two predominant issues that have come
to the fore this year: pollution and blue light
from electronic devices.
"Environmental impurities, like ground
level ozone (O3) pollution, have been
shown to cause signs of premature ageing.
"Pollution levels have never been higher,
and this is having a significant impact on the
health and appearance of our skin.
It causes damage to the skin in various
ways such as weakened antioxidant defences
at the surface, increase in dehydration,
increase in sebum production and more.
"Skin damage due to ozone exposure
is mainly mediated by its ability to induce
oxidative stress. More specifically, exposure
to ozone pollution (O3 -- such as from
driving in peak hour traffic and living
in big cities) has been shown (in vivo)
to oxidise lipids, deplete skin's natural
antioxidant reser voir, activate inf lammatory
pathways, and cause collagen degradation.
"There are, therefore, longterm effects
from pollution on the skin. The compounded
effect of ozone-induced oxidative stress leads
to accelerated signs of skin ageing including
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, loss
of radiance, skin laxity, as well as diffuse and
Megan says SkinCeuticals' latest study (due
for publication in the Journal of Investigative
Dermatology) has shown that topical vitamin
C formulations, such as SkinCeuticals' C E
Ferulic or Phloretin CF can have a highly
protective effect, significantly reducing the
oxidative damage caused by O3 exposure.
"Antioxidants not only provide advanced
environmental protection but are also
clinically proven to improve the appearance
of fine lines, wrinkles, and promote a
naturally even skin tone by neutralising free
Dr Yohei Tanaka, one of Japan's leading
plastic surgeons and founder of the
International Photobiological Society in
Melbourne, was also a keynote speaker at
Cosmetex, with a focus on the necessity of
solar near-infrared (NIR) protection.
"The need to overcome sunlight (UV
and NIR) arose for the first time when
primitive life developed on land," he says.
"Studies have shown that NIR may
damage skin collagen content via an
increase in MMP-1 activity in the same
manner as is known for UV radiation."
Through intensive photobiological
research, Dr Tanaka discovered the various
biological effects of water-filtered broad
spectrum near-infrared (1000-1800 nm
together with a water-filter that excludes
wavelengths 1400-1500 nm) including anti-
62 | SPA+CLINIC
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