Home' Spa and Clinic : SPA Vol-71 Spring 2017 Contents AESTHETICS
Dr Geoffrey Heber
fine lines and sun damage by
refining the skin's surface.
Retinol is a true anti-ageing
superstar, working to help
brighten the skin, reduce the
appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles, regulate sebum
production and increase skin
moisture levels and leave the
skin smoother, softer and
One of the keys to the
success of Australia's award-winning
cosmeceutical range Ultraceuticals in the
past decade has been its retinol products.
"What I regard as the biggest
breakthroughs in skincare technology have
been the ability to make vitamin A as retinol
more stable and the introduction of alpha
hydroxy acids," says Ultraceuticals founder
Dr Geoffrey Heber.
"These ingredients are the gold
standards and other ingredients measure
their effectiveness against them. No
cosmetic ingredients have yet been shown
to be more effective for reversing signs of
ageing than these."
Dr Heber says retinol -- reported to
have effects within the skin up to 20 times
stronger than the more commonly used
retinyl palmitate -- is an unstable molecule
and must therefore be stabilised to maintain
optimal potency until usage.
Ultraceuticals' team of expert research
chemists have spent five years developing
and testing its exclusive Ultra-Reti
microencapsulation technology for
effective stabilisation and delivery of
retinol to the skin.
Its Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum range,
relaunched in August, now features a new
and improved exclusive retinol delivery
technology within the Ultra-Reti.
"Formulas also often include other
skin saviour ingredients such as vitamin
C and hyaluronic acid, which is utilised in
Medik8's r-Retinoate to give a more luxury
Elliot explains that vitamin A is integral
for helping with the natural cycle of
cell turnover. It is able to speed up the
regeneration of skin cells to thicken the
epidermis, plump the skin and enhance
collagen production. It is also able to inhibit
the formation of uneven pigmentation and
decrease the likelihood of blemishes.
"Forms of retinol should not be used
during the day as the molecules themselves
are sensitive to UV; they degrade when
exposed to the sun.
"Therefore, retinol should be used at
night. Medik8 r-Retinoate actually contains
the only non-photosensitive form of vitamin
A - retinyl retinoate.
"This is proven to not break down on
exposure to sunlight and can be used both
day and night.
"Vitamin A and vitamin C go hand in
hand with night and day products respectively,
as they both help to stimulate collagen
production, which is integral for anti-ageing.
"AHAs are also useful to use alongside
vitamin A to help slough off the top layer
of dead skin and help to improve cellular
regeneration. There are no
ingredients we advise not to
use with vitamin A.
A skincare is not
women who are pregnant,
breastfeeding or trying
for a baby.
"If you are taking
medication, check its
compatibility with vitamin A
skincare with your doctor."
Medik8 advises users
to start on vitamin A by
The new Ultra-Reti
microparticles are one-
millionth of the size, which
means finer microparticles
than ever before are able to
penetrate faster and more
effectively with a higher
The microparticles are
formed by encapsulating retinol
into a soft wax base that is
readily absorbed into the skin.
Ultra A Skin Perfecting
Range retinol stabilisation
and delivery technology
ensures vital ingredients
impact cells in the epidermis
to produce significantly
plump and visibly diminished
fine lines and wrinkles.
This cutting- edge
technology leads the way
with superior stability over a
six-month time frame when
compared to unprotected
retinol and other competitor
NO NEED TO FEAR
Vitamin A used to be the ingredient
everyone was too afraid
to use, according to
Elliot Isaacs, Medik8
"It was associated with
irritated, red and flaking
skin," he says. "These
problems were due to
higher than normal levels
of vitamin A introduced
into the skin far too
quickly, which caused an
"Now, vitamin A
products have improved
with very skin-friendly
"Medik8 utilises a
which allows the vitamin
A actives to be released
slowly over time into
the skin and also helps
to stabilise the vitamin
A, which is notoriously
unstable in water.
Elliot Isaacs and Catherine
Biedermann, managing director
of Advanced Cosmeceuticals,
Australian distributor of Medik8
Ultraceuticals Ultra A Skin
spaandclinic.com.au | 71
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